The Concrete and the Clay...

A different view of my "Tetford Quay" model, styrene stone in evidence.
 Apologies for going on yet again about stonework. I covered the subject back in this blog about two years ago, but on reflection, I don't think I described things well enough.

The photo above shows why I don't like proprietary stone plastic sheet. It's pretty bland, although some people get superb results with it, have a look at Geoff  Forster's superb Penhydd station building, also featured in MRJ 211. The Wills stuff is nice, but the pattern repeats very obviously and it's easy to spot. However, all this is only my humble opinion, feel very free to disagree with me!

I first tried doing stonework with Polyfilla on card, then later on plastikard. The results were OK, even on plastikard (I used 0.040 sheet), but it was difficult to scribe, resisting the scriber and giving me aching wrists. I then moved on to Pyruma after reading some of Allan Downes's excellent articles. This did mean baking the sides of the structures in the oven for a (very anxious) half hour, but the results were worth it. Only trouble was, the clay had to be scribed wet...it dries so hard that any re-modelling is out of the question.

The wet Pyruma clay is best attacked with a Stanley knife blade, repeatedly in a vertical motion, keeping the flat, sharp base of the blade parallel with the work piece.If the marks are all roughly horizontal, that will be fine. Then stab with the tip of the blade, to make vertical course lines. The barn below was done this way.  I was working to a budget; the customer wasn't paying for my spending hours carving each stone, but it works well enough.


My partner, Petra, has spent time carving stonework out of the wet clay and of course it looks excellent- best done with an exacto knife ground down to a square tip. There's a photo on the previous post. You can also use a clay stamp, although the results are a bit hit and miss. This is also described on the previous post.
The Das method...those quoins were added later, and they look pretty clumsy now.
I seem to have settled on the scribed Das method now, for various reasons. It's forgiving, easy to carve, and it doesn't have to be baked. It only really works on something porous, like thick card, and the card does have to be treated with wood glue for it to adhere, and to stop it warping the card. However, if you use a small hand scriber, like a ground down screwdriver, sharpened to a point, scribing is easy, if a little mind-numbing. You can work it wet, and I have achieved passable results with a stamp, but I prefer working with it when it has dried. I scribe carefully and gently, going over the lines two or three times, and taking regular breaks!

I promise not to go on any more now...until I start painting the office model on the bench, anyway!


My original Stonework Post here







4 comments:

Jam said...

I have to agree with the problems of using plastic sheets for stonework. I'll happily use plastics sheets for most other surfaces such as brickwork or corrugated iron, however I don't use the stone plastic sheets any more.

I also use DAS clay for any stonework for all the reasons you describe. I do find it hard if you have to do uneven courses and have to always look at the prototype (although I guess that is a good idea anyway!). This is because for some reason I find it hard to scribe out random courses.

Unfortunately there will be very little stonework in my latest project so I will have to learn how to paint the brick sheets realistically! I will however use DAS for most of the surfaces (station yard, concourse, river bed etc). It really is a versatile project.

Iain Robinson said...

Thanks very much, Jam. When I look at prototype stonework it amazes me how they lifted the bloomin' things up there in the first place! It is hard just to scribe stonework without something to go by, I agree.

With the brick sheets, I find it useful to paint the entire sheet over with cream, roughen it with sandpaper, then dry brush over it, picking out odd bricks here and there. Apologies if you knew that already! Look forward to seeing how you get on.

Jam said...

Thank you Iain. I did know about washing it over with cream, but I never knew what to do from then on and so just left it at that. I had never even thought about roughing it up to give the paint something to stay into. I must try that.

I agree about the amazing ability to haul huge blocks of stonework on top of a wall - particularly when they had very little in the way of mechanical help!

The most tricky carving for stonework I did was the castle on 'Calshot' because it was completely circular.

Iain Robinson said...

Jam, once I have dry-brushed the wall with a generic brick shade, I draw onto it, or rather shade onto the wall with a couple of pencils, a Derwent Drawing Conte pencil, “Chocolate 6600” for scorched bricks and general grime, the other a Rexel Cumberland “Venetian Red” flat Conte pencil. Chalk pastels would work well, too. Just take care not to get anything into the mortar courses...and good luck!